The Chanel show struggles with the designer void. Actress Lupita Nyong’o talks about diversity in fashion

PARIS (AP) — A giant empty cage greeted Chanel’s guests on its return to the Grand Palais venue on Tuesday. Although perhaps not intentionally symbolic, the decor seemed to capture the current state of the house itself: a majestic structure with no creative direction. With the recent departure of Virginie Viard, Chanel finds itself at a crossroads as the fashion world eagerly awaits the appointment of a new creative director.

Meanwhile, in a powerful move toward diversity, Chanel announced Lupita Nyong’o as its newest ambassador. The appointment of the Oscar-winning actor, who identifies as Kenyan-Mexican, comes at a crucial time for the French fashion house, which has been criticized in the past for its lack of inclusivity. The move follows Britain’s Leena Nair’s widely praised appointment as global chief executive of Chanel in January 2022, making her the only woman of color to head a major luxury brand.

Here are some highlights from the spring and summer ready-to-wear shows:

Chanel: Looking for a vision beyond the empty cage

The spring collection featured many familiar elements from Chanel’s extensive repertoire – chiffon capes, slit skirts, embroidered sheer shirt dresses, trench coats with multi-colored feather prints, flight jackets with Peter Pan collars, all-pink or blue tweed looks and the iconic little black dress (LBD). , which Chanel herself introduced to the world. Tweed, jersey, faille, sheer embroidery, sequins, fringes, pastel knits and glittery platforms were all present, providing a showcase of the house’s trademarks.

But despite the breadth and richness of the offering, something was wrong. There was little cohesion and at times the collection lacked the distinctive soul that once characterized Chanel’s shows. A series of foulard-printed dresses looked out of place – as if they were clumsily borrowed from an entirely different narrative.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel used scissors to free women from their corsets. Today Chanel herself needs liberation. Applause at the end of the show, which featured designs that often seemed uninspired, was noticeably muted, with critics visibly shifting in their seats.

There were star-studded appearances from Elvis Presley’s granddaughter Riley Keough, who capped the show with a funky vocal performance of a Prince hit from the Gilded Cage, as well as interviews from Lupita Nyong’o, Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Vanessa Paradis, Margaret Qualley, Naomi Campbell and Erykah Badu an attempt to divert attention from the elephant – or empty cage – in the room.

Chanel is undoubtedly a fashion juggernaut and will survive this moment of transition. However, the importance of the decision now facing the House cannot be overstated. Chanel needs to find a designer who can reshape and redefine its vision for the future – someone who can capture the spirit of creativity and innovation that has been the essence of Chanel since its inception.

The fashion world is full of speculation. Possible successors include Daniel Roseberry, known for his dramatic work at Schiaparelli, Marc Jacobs, a seasoned classicist with Paris experience, and Nadège Vanhée, the veteran Hermès designer.

Viard, who was ousted this summer, succeeded Karl Lagerfeld after his death in 2019 and was his closest associate for decades. She had overseen record sales for Chanel, which reportedly reached $19.7 billion last year. Sales of ready-to-wear garments reportedly increased by 23% during her tenure.

Viard was only the third creative director in Chanel’s 100-year history, following Lagerfeld and the legendary founder Chanel herself.

Lupita Nyong’o named Chanel ambassador

Speaking to the Associated Press, Nyong’o shared her excitement and the deep sense of responsibility that comes with the new role. “It’s a great honor,” she said. “Chanel is a traditional brand with a long history. And being the newest face of it feels monumental. I am very, very proud and excited to embark on this new journey with a brand that I believe is dynamic and always feminine and regal.”

Nyong’o’s appointment brings a breath of fresh air to an industry criticized for a lack of diversity and unwillingness to change. The number of black designers leading heritage houses remains worryingly low – currently only Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing and Louis Vuitton men’s designer Pharrell Williams hold such positions at Parisian heritage brands.

For Nyong’o, joining Chanel is about more than just wearing beautiful clothes – it’s about contributing to a narrative shift in fashion. “The message that I naturally and consciously bring to the role is that things have changed. And we don’t want them to go back to what they once were,” she said.

Nyong’o was inspired by a recent documentary about Bethann Hardison, the legendary model and activist who was at the forefront of promoting diversity in fashion in the 1960s and 1970s. Hardison, who gained fame for her appearance at the historic 1973 Battle of Versailles – a groundbreaking fashion show that put American designers in the spotlight – became one of the first high-profile black models and an outspoken advocate for change.

“In this documentary, I was really disturbed to see how much work had been done to diversify the fashion industry, but then how much it reverted to monoculture in the following years,” Nyong’o said.

Hardison’s tireless efforts led to significant gains for black models in the past, but the subsequent regression highlighted how fragile those victories could be. Her fight for inclusivity in fashion serves as both a cautionary tale and a source of inspiration for Nyong’o, who now continues Hardison’s legacy.

“It was a step back, so to me that was evidence that it requires awareness. It is a conscious effort that must be made daily and in the present. You don’t even fix it and then hope it stays that way,” Nyong’o added. She sees Chanel’s decision to appoint her as ambassador as part of a larger, conscious statement: “I feel like these moves that Chanel is making are part of the statement of the desire to represent a more realistic world.” And I am Proud to be one of those faces sending that message.”

The importance of visibility in reshaping perceptions cannot be underestimated.

“Growing up, I didn’t see myself in ads for brands like this. “That led me to go through quite an identity crisis and feeling underestimated by the world,” Nyong’o said candidly. She remembered those early days – staring at the pages of glossy magazines, looking for a face that reflected her own, only to find none.

Now she imagines a little girl somewhere watching her in a Chanel campaign and seeing someone who looks like her – someone elegant, celebrated and appreciated.

“I hope there is a message for little girls,” she continued. “My work as an actor and writer, as a podcast maker and now as a brand ambassador is to change that, simply by occupying the space.” It’s a powerful reminder of the transformative power of representation; When someone finally occupies a space that was once empty, it changes the way people see themselves and the world around them.

The luxury industry is often accused of tokenism and superficial diversity efforts – short-term gestures without real long-term change. Determined to bring meaning to her role, Nyong’o embodies the idea that representation must be tied to influence and purpose.